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The petite Glade at Sketch (9 Conduit St.; 44-870/777-4488; lunch for two $100) has jeweled walls and a lunch-only menu by mega-toque Pierre Gaignaire. Oeufs en cocotte come in a jar of smoked milk; skate is crusted in chickpea flour and sauced with anise-flavored foam. • Brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin have worked in some of London's best kitchens; their highly anticipated Galvin Bistro de Luxe (66 Baker St.; 44-207/935-4007; dinner for two $140) delivers unabashedly rich Gallic cooking: wood pigeon and glazed chestnut pithiviers; oxtails and black pudding Parmentier. • Waiters in white uniforms with gold epaulets serve Cantonese classics, such as crab claws stuffed with shrimp mousse and suckling pig with crisp, lacquered skin, at China Tang (The Dorchester, Park Lane; 44- 207/629-9988; dinner for two $180), designer David Tang's opulent evocation of Deco Shanghai. Celebrity sightings are virtually guaranteed.
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