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The soaring Arola (43 Calle Argumosa; 34/91-467- 0202; dinner for two $85), part of the Jean Nouvel expansion of the Museo Reina Sofía, offers tapas—Ibérico pork carpaccio, deconstructed patatas bravas—courtesy of superstar chef Sergi Arola. • Lágrimas Negras (41 Avda. América; 34/91-744-5400; dinner for two $150) at the design-centric Hotel Puerta América surprises with intelligent neoclassical cooking: razor clam–and-bacon salad on a bed of lentils, grilled wild turbot dressed with truffles. • Even if Balenciaga is not for you, the Museo del Traje's Bokado (2 Avda. de Juan de Herrera; 34/91-549-0041; lunch for two $100) is reason enough to visit. Look for such avant-garde Basque treats as roasted squab in a "shirt" of leeks, or apple and foie gras terrine caramelized with Pedro Ximénez sherry.
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