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This year marked the return of energy and high style to New York's restaurant scene. • The long-awaited Café Gray (10 Columbus Circle; 212/823-6338; dinner for two $100) is a splashy, stylized brasserie featuring an open kitchen framed by blue lava-stone. Shrimp with green mango in a creamy Kaffir lime rémoulade and red bass bathed in a lavender-honey broth deliver Gray Kunz's signature flavors. • Serious foodies are smitten with Josh DeChellis's nouvelle Japanese dishes at Sumile (154 W. 13th St.; 212/989-7699; dinner for two $95). His vanilla-sweet crab in a citrusy yuzu gelée and oysters with pineapple and nori vinegar impressed Ferran Adrià himself. • With sumac-dusted quail over pumpkin risotto and wild salmon enlivened with Indian spices, Gary Robins offers a supremely assured take on fusion food at the Biltmore Room (290 Eighth Ave.; 212/807-0111; dinner for two $95), a marbled space retrofitted from a 1913 hotel. • Sure, you'll get an exemplary rib eye at BLT Steak (106 E. 57th St.; 212/752-7470; dinner for two $70). But it's the light-as-air, cheesy popovers, giant onion rings, and the city's definitive tuna tartare that keep this modern midtown spot packed.
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