CHECKING IN: Hotel Dining Rooms | Travel + Leisure
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CHECKING IN: Hotel Dining Rooms

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Two recent openings have put the "hot" back in hotel. • At 17 (1117 Prairie St.; 832/200-8888; lunch for two $55), in the newly revamped, historic Sam Houston Hotel, one forgives the occasional lapses in service for the sake of chef Jeff Armstrong's short-rib salad, saucy clams with chorizo and corn bread, and sea scallops with caramelized cauliflower. Texas tycoons and Southern belles alike have fallen for the bold brocade upholstery and potted palms set against gleaming dark parquet; this is definitely the sleekest room in town. • Jean-Georges Vongerichten (the guy who actually invented scallops with caramelized cauliflower) has recently added Bank (Hotel Icon, 220 Main St.; 713/224-4266; dinner for two $90) to his ever-expanding empire. The soaring space, retooled from a former Union National Bank lobby, has a cool grandeur, and dishes like ginger-tinged tuna with avocado deftly reprise JG's flirtatious Franco-Asian style. His chocolate cake with a molten center is worth the investment in calories.

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