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The word petit has never loomed larger in San Francisco's restaurant scene. These three favorites show that bigger just isn't better. • Napoli would be lucky to have a piccolo restaurant like A16 (2355 Chestnut St.; 415/771-2216; dinner for two $70), whose owners have plundered Italy's Campania region for dishes like butter beans-and-octopus soup served over grilled bread, and authentic Neapolitan pizzas with a chewy, blistery crust. • At the new Hotel Adagio, in the theater district, the stylish Cortez (550 Geary St.; 415/292-6360; dinner for two $65) plays to a full house with mini shots of carrot-ginger soup topped with celery foam or crab cakes with tarragon aioli. • Chef George Morrone, fresh from a stint in Australia, recently opened Tartare (550 Washington St.; 415/434-3100; dinner for two $100), where he experiments with combinations such as ahi, plums, and mint, or hamachi and pickled water-melon. A tiny list of entrées— poussin with almond milk, Tasmanian ocean trout with sour-cherry vinaigrette—completes the menu.
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