Bangkok’s chefs are taking cues from the city’s regionally driven street-food scene and bringing those diverse flavors to upscale tables around town. In the Thonglor neighborhood, Soul Food Mahanakorn (56/10 Soi 55, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/714-7708; dinner for two $30) uses free-range meat and organic produce in dishes such as khao mok gai, Thai Muslim–style chicken biryani served with a mint-cilantro-ginger sauce. A few blocks away in a charming shop-house, Phuket Town (160/8 Soi 55, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/714-9402; dinner for two $25) focuses on the fiery cooking of southern Thailand. A standout: fat rice noodles with yellow crab curry. For a sampling of the north’s more subtle, herb-scented cuisine, head to Gedhawa (24 Soi 35, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/662-0501; dinner for two $20), where rough-hewn wooden tables and silk lanterns set the stage for Chiang Mai classics such as khao soi (egg noodles with chicken curry) and sai ooua (pork sausage). At Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin (Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama I Rd.; 66-2/162-9000; dinner for two $150), Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen and partner Lertchai Treetawatchaiwong use liquid nitrogen to present frozen red curry with lobster, while seafood-flavored jellies make up a deconstructed tom yum soup. At the equally inventive Gaggan (68/1 Soi Langsuan; 66-2/652-1700; dinner for two $100), Ferran Adrià disciple Gaggan Anand spherifies cumin-spiked yogurt and blankets oysters with citrus black-salt foam in a colonial-style house near Lumpini Park.