Bangkok Modern

The Facts: Bangkok

Bangkok's best weather is from November through February, when the nights can be cool enough to justify a sweater. Rainy season starts in July and ends in October; spring is very, very hot.

Nancy Chandler's Map of Bangkok (www.nancychandler.net) is ideal for shopping.

WHERE TO STAY

Sukhothai Located in the Sathorn neighborhood, the city's most stylishly simple hotel also draws "hi-so" locals to its health club and pool. The coolly elegant design, calm atmosphere, and luxurious suites with huge bathrooms make it an ideal respite from Bangkok's tumult. Doubles from $190. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd.; 800/223-6800 or 66-2/287-0222, fax 66-2/285-0303; www.sukhothai.com
Regent Bangkok The former Peninsula is now part of the Four Seasons group—and upholds its high service standards. It still seems to be searching for an identity, but the Tony Chi-designed restaurants and the ideal-for-shopping location are reason enough to stay here. The garden-terrace rooms on the pool level are the ones to book. Doubles from $280. 155 Rajadamri Rd.; 800/545-4000 or 66-2/251- 6127, fax 66-2/253-9195; www.fourseasons.com/bangkok
Peninsula Bangkok The newest luxury property in Bangkok is also the first major hotel on the Thonburi side of the river, so almost every excursion means a river crossing (boats run every few minutes). The service might be the friendliest in town, and the views from higher floors are stunning. The pool goes on and on. Doubles from $169. 333 Charoennakorn Rd.; 66-2/861-2888, fax 66-2/861-1112; www.peninsula.com
The Oriental The Riverside Terrace at Bangkok's grande dame is still the best place in town for breakfast or an evening drink; afternoon tea in the Authors' Lounge is lavish. Splurge on one of the Author's Suites—named for Conrad, Maugham, Michener, and others—which are big enough to hold a cotillion. The spa is one of the best in town (and booked well in advance). Doubles from $269. 48 Oriental Ave.; 66-2/659-9000 fax 66-2/659-0000; www.mandarinoriental.com
BEST VALUE Montien Hotel This Thai-owned property may not have all the amenities, but it does have comfortable rooms, good service, and an unbeatable location: right near the Skytrain, and a short walk from Silom Road. The coffee shop serves great Western breakfasts and some of the best noodle dishes in town. Doubles from $130. 54 Surawong Rd.; 66-2/233-7060, fax 66-2/236-5218; www.montien.com

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Baan Khanitha A Thai restaurant just west of Sukhumvit that also sells contemporary art. Traditional dishes, such as spicy minced chicken salad, taste newly invented. Dinner for two $30. 2 Ploenjit Rd., 49 Soi Ruam Rudee; 66-2/253-4638
Biscotti The only place in town that will lure you away from Thai cuisine. Excellent Italian offerings—particularly the wood-fired pizzas—are complemented by a good wine list and a modern, open-kitchen design. Dinner for two $30. Regent Bangkok; 66-2/251-6127
Celadon Many call this the city's best Thai restaurant, citing the serene atmosphere and beautiful dishes bursting with fresh flavors (and spices—no stinting on chiles here). Try the spicy shrimp appetizer and the green curry. Dinner for two $42. Sukhothai; 66-2/287-0222
Greyhound Café Shop-till-you-drop types pause at the chain's various locations—including this one, on the second floor of the Emporium shopping center—for Thai-Western fusion food and lattes. Lunch for two $12. Sukhumvit Rd., Soi 24; 66-2/664-8663