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The Dordogne Valley straddles three official regions in southwest France (Aquitaine, Limousin, and Midi-Pyrénées) and three distinct départements (Dordogne, Corrèze, and Lot). Spring and early fall are the best times to visit this area. In May, the Dordogne Valley is resplendent with lilacs and wisteria; white asparagus and strawberries make restaurant menus irresistible. In fall, cèpes are plentiful (though many establishments close for winter in early November). Summer is lovely too, if you don't mind sharing the place with lots of French vacationers. Get good maps (we suggest Michelin)—the smallest roads are the most beautiful, but navigating them can be a challenge.
WHERE TO STAY
Château de la Treyne A château on 300 acres of parkland and forest, with 16 quietly elegant guest rooms. DOUBLES FROM $168
LACAVE; 33-5/65-27-60-60 www.relaischateaux.com
Château des Reynats The new owners of this formerly run-down castle are making it the most stylish hotel in the region. DOUBLES FROM $125 AVE. DES REYNATS, CHANCELADE-PÉRIGUEUX; 33-5/53-03-53-59 www.chateau-hotel-perigord.com
Hôtel Edward 1er A 19th-century manor house with small but charmingly furnished rooms. DOUBLES FROM $58; 5 RUE ST.-PIERRE, MONPAZIER; 33-5/53-22-44-00
WHERE TO EAT
Ferme de Berle Dinner on the farm, with Laurence and Jean-Jacques Salvant's family recipes. DINNER FOR TWO $41; BERLE, COLLONGES-LA-ROUGE; 33-5/55-25-48-06
Le Relais des Cinq Châteaux Unpretentious, traditional Périgord cooking. DINNER FOR TWO $53; VÉZAC-EN-PÉRIGORD 33-5/53-30-30-72
Restaurant La Meynardie Three- to five-course menus served on the pretty terrace of a farmhouse. DINNER FOR TWO $62 PAULIN, SALIGNAC-EYVIGUES; 33-5/53-28-85-98
Château de la Treyne Chef Stéphane Andrieux's refined dishes shine in this romantic setting. DINNER FOR TWO $147 LACAVE; 33-5/65-27-60-60
Restaurant La Bastide Traditional Dordogne specialties. Don't miss the foie gras au torchon. DINNER FOR TWO $72; 52 RUE ST.-JACQUES, MONPAZIER; 33-5/53-22-60-59
L'Oison Philippe Etchebest's innovative preparations are the valley's most pleasant culinary surprise. DINNER FOR TWO $62 CHATEAU DES REYNATS, AVE. DES REYNATS, CHANCELADE-PÉRIGUEUX 33-5/53-03-53-59
WHERE TO SHOP
In Sarlat, stores on the Place de la Liberté offer delectable foods such as foie gras and truffles. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, the outdoor market—one of the best in the Dordogne—fills the square.
Elie-Arnaud Denoix vin de noix (labeled apéritif de noix) and plum eau-de-vie, in lovely gift bottles. COLLONGES-LA-ROUGE; 33-5/55-25-44-72
Entre Cour et Jardin Bright jacquard table linens; local pottery in earthy colors. 36 RUE ST.-JACQUES, MONPAZIER 33-5/53-22-61-30; www.couretjardin.com
Moulin de la Tour A 16th-century water mill with virgin walnut, hazelnut, and almond oils for sale. Tours available. STE.-NATHALENE, SARLAT; 33-5/53-59-22-08
WHAT TO DO
Musée National de Préhistoire An impressive collection of cave paintings, Neanderthal skeletons, and tools in a
13th-century fortress. LES EYZIES-DE-TAYAC; 33-5/53-06-45-45
Grotte du Grand Roc Guided walking tours of prehistoric caves that tunnel deep into a hillside. LES-EYZIES-DE-TAYAC 33-5/53-06-92-70; www.grandroc.com
Lascaux ll The 17,000-year-old Cro-Magnon cave paintings at Grotte de Lascaux have been closed to the public since 1963. See replicas here instead. MONTIGNAC 33-5/53-35-50-10
La Maison Learning to cook Périgord classics with Danièle Mazet-Delpeuch. CLASSES FOR TWO (INCLUDING ALL MEALS AND ONE-NIGHT STAY) $190; CHAVAGNAC 33-5/53-51-00-24
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