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THE FACTS
Cold, rainy winters and steamy, though bearable, summers make spring and fall the best times to visit.
WHERE TO STAY
Istanbul has an unusual number of good, inexpensive lodging options.
Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul
It's not for nothing that this property was named one of the top 10 hotels in T+L's 2005
World's Best Awards—located not five minutes' walk from the major monuments of the Old
City, and with exceptional service. DOUBLES FROM $340
1 TEVKIFHANE SOKAK, SULTANAHMET; 800/332-3442 OR 90-212/638-8200; www.fourseasons.com
Mavi Ev (Blue House)
The most notable of several modest, clean, and well-run guesthouses in the vicinity of
the Four Seasons. DOUBLES FROM $170
14 DALBASTI SOKAK, SULTANAHMET; 90-212/638-9010; www.bluehouse.com.tr
Yesil Ev (Green House)
A popular guesthouse with a cool walled courtyard tucked between the park outside the Blue
Mosque and the Baths of Roxelana. Reserve well in advance. DOUBLES FROM $180
5 KABASAKAL CADDESI, SULTANAHMET; 90-212/517-6785; www.istanbulyesilev.com
Ayasofya Pansiyonlari
A streetlong complex of restored wooden yali behind the walls of Hagia Sophia. There's a row
of guesthouses, as well as Sarnic, a subterranean restaurant in a Roman cistern lit only by
candles. DOUBLES FROM $130 (FRONT SIDE RECOMMENDED) DINNER FOR TWO $100
SOGUKCESME SOKAK, SULTANAHMET; 90-212/513-3660; www.ayasofyapensions.com
WHERE TO EAT
Balikçi Sabahattin
DINNER FOR TWO $100, INCLUDING WINE
1 SEYIT HASAN KOYU SOKAK, CANKARTURAN, SULTANAHMET; 90-212/458-1824
Hamdi Restaurant
A typical kebab restaurant, with a tremendous variety of mezes, and great views. DINNER FOR
TWO $60
TAHMIS CADDESI, 17 KALÇIN SOKAK, EMINÖNÜ; 90-212/526-1242
Reina
A kind of mall of open-air restaurants and lounges, set on the Bosporus.
44 MUALLIM NACI CADDESI, ORTAKÖY; 90-212/259-5919
360 Istanbul
Book a banquette at the edge of the terrace for a view. DINNER FOR TWO $60
32309 ISTIKLAL CADDESI, MISIR APT. K8, BEYOGLU; 90-212/251-1042
WHERE TO SHOP
A shopper in Istanbul needs not a few good tips so much as a wrangler; most hotels can arrange a qualified guide. I especially liked the Spice Market, where caviar is cheap and the worry beads and saffron are the real thing.
Abdulla
Excellent towels, soaps, and loofahs at the Grand Bazaar; all can be shipped.
53 HALICILAR CADDESI; 90-212/522-9078
Beymen
Useful in case one needs to check up on the latest offerings from Roberto Cavalli, D&G,
and Prada; there's also a fine street-level brasserie. LUNCH FOR TWO $70
23/1 ABDI IPEKÇI CADDESI; 90-212/343-0404
Mehmet Çetinkaya Gallery
Without question one of the best of the city's carpet dealers, located on an obscure side
street near the Blue Mosque. This is the shop to which foreign dealers make a beeline, although
not because the prices are low.
KUCUKAYASOFYA CADDESI, 7 TAVUKHANE SOKAK, SULTANAHMET; 90-212/517-6808
Sofa
My favorite store in Sultanahmet, with a stock that reflects the exuberant tastes of its owner.
85 NURUOSMANIYE CADDESI, CAGALOGLU; 90-212/520-2850
WHAT TO DO
Archaeological Museum
BETWEEN GÜLHANE PARK AND TOPKAPI PALACE, SULTANAHMET; 90-212/520-7740
Istanbul Modern
4 ANTREPO, KARAKöY 90-212/334-7300; www.istanbulmodern.org
Cagaloglu Hamami
One of the more refined traditional baths, with a menu in English; go for the complete "Oriental
luxury service" ($36 plus 10 percent tip).
34 YEREBATAN CADDESI, CAGALOGLU; 90-212/522-2424; www.cagalogluhamami.com.tr
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