Historic Arles, once a large Roman encampment, is the most purely Provençal of cities in the area. Famed for its beautiful women, "Les Arlésiennes," its Roman antiquities, and its bullfights, the city has inspired both poetry (Frédéric Mistral) and some of Van Gogh's more famous paintings. Most stalls are open Tuesday through Saturday, with shorter hours on Monday.
Frédéric Dervieux (5 Rue Vernon; 33-4/90-96-02-39;dervieux.com) shows handsome furniture such as sculpted armoires, as well as smaller items, including a dainty walnut verrier (glassware cabinet). A short walk into Le Vieil Arles, the city's Old Quarter, leads to Antiquités Maurin (4 Rue de Grille; 33-4/90-96-51-57; antiques-maurin.com), brimming with rarissime 19th-century Apt plates and platters, and gilt-framed mirrors from Beaucaire.
On the first Wednesday of every month, there is a delightful brocante (secondhand) market stretching along the tree-lined Boulevard des Lices, Arles's main promenade.