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America's Coolest New Diners

America's Coolest New Diners: M. Wells Dinette

Jesse Winter

M. Wells Dinette, Queens, NY

When chef Hugue Dufour (of Montreal’s famed Au Pied de Cochon) and his wife, Sarah Obraitis, opened M. Wells in July 2010, they turned a forgotten 1950s dining car into a veritable pilgrimage for foodies—until lease issues forced its close. The diner reopens in late summer 2012 as a cafeteria-style “dinette” with metal trays and bento boxes inside MoMA PS1. The rotating menu is as diverse as the original, featuring everything from oatmeal with foie gras to spaghetti and meatballs served in a can, and all concocted in the open kitchen, framed by cabinets of curiosities from the former diner and beyond.

Don’t Miss: The Russian Breakfast (a blini crêpe with hard-boiled eggs, smoked sturgeon, pickled vegetables, crème fraîche, and chive oil), an old M. Wells favorite.



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