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T+L Reports: America's Asian Invasion

Maybe they need a change of pace, or just a break from the stove: hotshot chefs across the country are trying their hands at preparing sushi and sashimi. BOSTON Onetime pastry chef Kenneth Oringer has been flirting with Asian ingredients at his French restaurant, Clio. Now he experiments with Japanese needlefish and pico de rollo at Clio's spin-off sashimi bar, Uni (370A Commonwealth Ave.; 617/536-7200; dinner for two $90). Signature dish: Fish tacos with grilled halibut and avocado cream. NEW YORK Marcus Samuelsson tops gravlax with beet sorbet at his Scandinavian restaurant, Aquavit. Opening numbers at his new American-Japanese Riingo (Alex Hotel, 205 E. 45th St.; 212/867-4200; dinner for two $100) include orange-clam or Kobe-beef nigiri and potato maki. Signature dish: Toro with pickled daikon. • Eric Ripert, Le Bernardin's seafood master, designed the menu at Geisha (33 E. 61st St.; 212/813-1112; dinner for two $90). Here sushi chef Kazuo Yoshida slices yellowtail from New Zealand and freshwater eel from Japan. Signature dish: Tuna tartare roll with slices of black truffle. SAN FRANCISCO Laurent Gras says the sashimi menu at Fifth Floor (Hotel Palomar, 12 Fourth St.; 415/348-1555; dinner for two $130) is in tune with his new, lighter way of cooking. He flies in impeccable fluke and striped marlin from Japan and Hawaii. Signature dish: No sushi here, but Gras's toro with a dash of lime oil steals the show.
—Maile Carpenter

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