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IN TETON VILLAGE Masa Sushi Its location is as unexpected as they come: on the second floor of the Best Western, right at the ski resort (attention, budget-minded families: doubles go for $99). But that doesn't prevent customers from lining up for chef Masa Kitami's unagi-avocado and spicy tuna rolls. To avoid a wait, arrive at 4:30, when the doors open. And steer finicky kids to the "cowboy roll," made with cooked beef. 3345 W. McCollister Dr., Teton Village; 307/732-2962; dinner for four $80.

Mangy Moose This adjoining saloon (famous for its live music) and restaurant have been serving buffalo meat loaf and local trout to famished skiers for more than three decades. The kids' menu has the usual suspects, plus "little prime rib." 3285 W. McCollister Dr., Teton Village; 307/733-4913; dinner for four $120.

Where to Shop
Jackson Bootlegger If any family member has forgotten to pack snow boots, make this your first stop. And when your kids catch cowboy fever, the Bootlegger carries authentic kickers for all ages. 36 E. Broadway, Jackson; 307/733-6207.

Skinny Skis Home to the widest range of cross-country and skate skis for sale or rent, plus Patagonia kids' clothing, local guidebooks, and backpacks—for toting gear, and for toting children. 65 W. Deloney Ave., Jackson; 307/733-6094.

Broadway Toys & Togs When a need for Brio, Playmobil, or Lego arises, here's the answer. Don't miss the fringed vests and sheriff's badges in the back. 48 E. Broadway, Jackson; 307/733-3918.

Teton Kids This childrens' clothing shop rents jogging strollers and frame packs perfect for carrying smaller kids on snowshoe hikes. 130 E. Broadway, Jackson; 307/739-2176.

Pure A tiny boutique that rivals Barneys for its cosmopolitan collection of skin-, hair-, and body-care products. Stock up on Cellex-C sunscreen—you'll need it on the slopes. 125 N. Cache St., Jackson; 307/734-5055.

Even More Amazing in the Summer?
The warm season in Jackson is short but oh-so-sweet. The snow doesn't disappear from many peaks until June; by then daylight lasts until nearly 10 p.m., temperatures hover in the comfortable seventies, the fish are jumping, the horses are saddled, and the wildflowers are starting to bloom. Here, some ideas to tempt you back:

Drive into Grand Teton National Park (800/628-9988 or 307/543-2811; www.gtlc.com) and head to Jenny Lake, where you can hike the shoreline and take a motorized ferry back across. Call now if you want to reserve one of Jenny Lake Lodge's classic cabins for next summer's getaway.

Holler from the stands at the JH Rodeo (307/733-2805; www.jhrodeo.com), which performs Wednesday and Saturday nights all summer at the town's fairgrounds.

Grab seats at a Bar J cattle ranch chuckwagon dinner (307/733-3370; www.barjchuckwagon.com; nightly in summer). Grand finale: a Western song-and-comedy show starring the Bar J Wranglers.

Ride the tram 4,139 vertical feet to the top of Rendezvous Peak (www.jacksonhole.com) for a midsummer snowball fight (at 10,450 feet, the area is rarely snow-free). There's easy access from here to hiking trails for all abilities.

Take on the Snake River in a raft—on request, the guides will do all the work so you don't even have to paddle. Barker-Ewing River Trips (800/448-4202; www.barker-ewing.com) can organize an outing that's as relaxing or exciting as you want.

Hole Up in a House
CABINS AND CONDOS Want breakfast in your own kitchen?Hundreds of rentals (from studios to five-bedrooms) are available in Teton Village and vicinity. Granite Ridge Cabins and Moose Creek town houses are both located at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, near the Moose Creek lift, so you can be on the slopes in seconds. There are less-expensive options at the Racquet Club, about a five-minute drive from the base of the mountain. To sort through the choices, contact Jackson Hole Resort Lodging (800/443-8613; www.jhresortlodging.com; one-bedroom condos from $110, three-bedroom houses from $475).

THE TIME-SHARE ALTERNATIVE Like it so much here you wish you owned a place?The Teton Club (3340 W. Cody Dr., Teton Village; 866/352-9777 or 307/734-9777; www.tetonclub.com; call for share purchase prices), at the base of the mountain next to the tram, has 37 fully equipped, nicely decorated two- and three-bedroom condos available for fractional ownership—from 2 to 12 weeks a year. On every visit, you get free ski passes.

FLOUR AND FLOWERS Save yourself that first-day trip to the grocery store—ask the local delivery service, the Flying Tomato (307/690-6758; www.shopanddelivery.com), to stock the cupboards before you arrive. To have your mountain home filled with flowers (or even a fully trimmed Christmas tree), contact Flower Hardware (800/667-1001; www.flowerhardware.com).

Hole For the Holidays
At dusk on Christmas Eve, ski instructors bearing torches stream down Jackson's slopes, creating a ribbon of light. For a good view, stand near the Bridger Gondola base. A similar children's parade winds its way along the lower runs that same night—and any interested kids can participate. Santa himself takes up residence in the Stage Stop Building, near the town square, December 15 through 24.

SALLY WADYKA, a freelance writer and former editor at Vogue and Glamour, went to Jackson Hole to ski two years ago and has never left.


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