T+L Reports: Glass Restaurant, Sydney
Published: April 2009
By Kendall Hill
Manhattan-based designer Tony Chi (Chicago's restaurant NoMI; Spoon in Hong Kong) has given
the classic French brasserie a Modernist makeover at Glass, the newly revamped Hilton Sydney's
shimmering dining room. A traditional marble terrazzo in the foyer catches the changing daylight
through transparent walls. Beneath a mirror-glass ceiling, the wine cellar rises almost 25
feet into the air, forming an imposing tower filled with 10,000 temperature-controlled bottles.
The main room's rustic floors are made from blackbutt timber recycled from Sydney wharves.
In search of ideas for updated dishes to match the contemporary setting, Australian celebrity
chef Luke Mangan ate his way through Paris and Lyons. The result—cauliflower soup with
truffle oil and chives, pear-and-custard soufflé with ginger ice cream—is pure
French fare, but with an Aussie attitude. Glass, Hilton Sydney, 488 George
St., Level 2; 61-2/9265-6068; www.glassbrasserie.com.au; dinner for two $120.