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Cruising Venice

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By Gondola Locals tend to use gondolas only on special occasions, such as weddings and funerals. As a result, after 10 years of visiting Venice, I'd never taken one—my husband was always too embarrassed. What a mistake. At our son's insistence, we climbed into a gondola near Piazza San Marco and agreed to the suggested "special tour," for which we paid an astronomical 200,000 lire ($114; I've since learned that the average price for a 50-minute ride is $68). It was worth it. Our boatman—a fourth-generation gondolier—was charming, spoke perfect English, and pointed out all the important landmarks with great pride: Marco Polo's house, the Palladian church of San Giorgio Maggiore, Palazzo Molin (where Goethe stayed), palaces of Venetian nobles, the unfortunate Teatro La Fenice, the opera house destroyed two years ago by fire and awaiting restoration. The kids loved the "ohaaay" sound the gondoliers make to warn each other that they're about to round a corner. "See, Mom?" Gianmarco said. "I told you it was going to be cool."

By Vaporetto The water-bus is the way most of Venice gets around. It makes frequent stops along the Grand Canal. Tickets cost approximately $3.50 and are sold at stops and in bars, shops, and tobacco stores displaying a sign reading ACTV. Don't be shy about asking for guidance; vaporetto drivers are used to offering directions.

By Traghetto Only three bridges cross the Grand Canal; if you don't want to walk a mile to get to one of them, catch a traghetto, one of hundreds of gondola ferries (they're actually retired gondolas) that traverse the canal at key points. The price of a ride is 40 cents. Most Venetians stand up, but feel free to sit—it's a lot better than falling into the canal and taking the rest of the boat with you.

By Motoscafo Water taxis can be hailed all over Venice, and will deliver you as close as possible to where you need to go. But they're expensive—a trip for four from the airport to Piazza San Marco costs $80. A good thing to ask when renting an apartment: Will a motoscafo be able to deliver us right to it?

OUR FAVORITE SQUARES
Campo San Polo Once used for bullfights, masked balls, and mass sermons, Campo San Polo is one of the largest squares after San Marco. It's a good place to sit on a bench, rest your feet, and take in the crowd: mothers with babies, older people enjoying the sun, kids playing soccer, teenagers hanging out. If your crew is hungry, head to La Patatina (San Polo 2741), "the French Fry," which also has panini and fried vegetables; or Osteria Enoteca Vivaldi (San Polo 1457) for spaghetti with clams.

Campo Santa Margherita A spot we always gravitate toward, lured by its enchanted setting and pizza restaurants. Try Al Sole di Napoli Pizzeria (Dorsoduro 3023) or Trattoria Antico Capon (Dorsoduro 3004A). We love the outdoor cafés here too, among them Il Caffè (Dorsoduro 2963), and Caffè Causin (Dorsoduro 2996), celebrated for its gelato. In the mornings, there's a market selling fish, fruit, and vegetables. At night, send your teenagers for a slice at Pizza al Volo (Dorsoduro 2944), then to Dolcevita (Dorsoduro 2894A), a club frequented by young Italians.

Campo Santo Stefano This is the perfect place for a sightseeing break, since it's between the Accademia and Piazza San Marco. There are cafés on both sides of the square, and, for the price of an espresso or limonata—expect to pay a premium—you can watch Venice pass by as your kids play around the statue of 19th-century writer Niccolò Tommaseo. Paolin (San Marco 2962), on the northwest side, is considered by many to have the best gelato in the city: try the bacio (chocolate with hazelnuts) or stracciatella (chocolate chip) or pistachio. Hostaria ai Morozi (San Marco 2801) makes delicious curried scampi, as well as good salads and panini.

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