Imperial Hotel 208 High St.; 410/778-5000; doubles $125, including breakfast; dinner for two $60. The second-story porch affords fine people-watching; the food is first-rate.
White Swan Tavern 231 High St.; 410/778-2300; doubles from $100, including breakfast. Check out the archaeological finds from the tavern's own dig.
Breakfast at Jacqueline's 202 S. Morris St.; 410/ 226-0238. In an old bank building, Jacqueline's serves up eggs, scrapple, and great coffee.
Robert Morris Inn 314 N. Morris St.; 410/226-5111; doubles from $90. Request a river view.
Bistro St. Michaels 403 Talbot St.; 410/745-9111; lunch for two $30.
208 Talbot 208 Talbot St.; 410/745-3838; dinner for two $70.
For ferry info, call 410/968-3206.
Ruke's Seafood Deck 20770 Caleb Jones Rd.; 410/425-2311; lunch for two $13.
Smith Island Motel 4025 Smith Island Rd.; 410/425-3321; doubles $50.
For ferry info, call 410/968-2338.
Hilda Crockett's Chesapeake House Main Ridge; 757/891-2331; doubles $80. Fabulous if you like Monopoly and church suppers.
Black Walnut Point Inn Black Walnut Rd.; 410/886-2452; doubles $120, One-bedroom cottage $140.
The Chesapeake Bay Book by Allison Blake (Berkshire House)—Scores of entries describing hotels, restaurants, shops, and things to do in the area.
Day Trips in Delmarva by Alan Fisher (Rambler Books)—Extremely useful touring information, covering southern Delaware and the Eastern Shore of Maryland and Virginia.
Maryland: A New Guide to the Old Line State (Johns Hopkins University Press)—A 1976 update of the WPA writers' project travel guide.
Beautiful Swimmers by William Warner (Little, Brown)—A Pulitzer Prize-winning study of the nature, history, and ecology of the Chesapeake. Written from the vantage of the watermen who make their living catching the bay's famous blue crabs.
Turning the Tide: Saving the Chesapeake Bay by Tom Horton and William M. Eichbaum (Island Press)—For a basic understanding of how the bay was formed and the problems it faces.