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When to Go

Denmark's general climate is relatively mild, given its northern locale, but winters are cold and dark. The ideal time to visit is May through September, when temperatures average between 50 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and the city is at its most festive, with a variety of outdoor events.

Getting There

Direct flights from the U.S. to Kastrup, Copenhagen's international airport, are not abundant, but Scandinavian Airlines offers several options, including a 71/2-hour nonstop from Newark, and direct flights from Seattle (91/2 hours), Chicago, and Washington (via Dulles International Airport). Travel from L.A. or San Francisco requires a connecting flight.

Getting Around

Your best bet is to rent a car. Christiania, Ballonparken, and Vennelyst are within 15 minutes of one another; Christiania is on the Copenhagen side of the harbor and the other two are on the Amager island side, near Kastrup. Valdemars Slot— two hours' drive from Copenhagen—is on Tåsinge, an island in the archipelago off the island of Fyn. Overnight stays at Valdemars Slot can be booked—usually by the week—through Danish-American agent Henning Ottsen (805/643-6363; www.scandinavianrentals.com).

Where to Stay

Hotel Tiffany
A charming small hotel located in the city center. 1 Halmtorvet; 45-3/321-8050; www.hotel-tiffany.dk; doubles from $182.

The Square
Fashionable accommodations near the Tivoli gardens. 14 Rådhuspladsen; 45-3/338-1200; www.thesquare.dk; doubles from $266.

Where to Eat

Restaurants are in Christiania; addresses (except Pusher Street's) are area designations.

Spiseloppen
43 Bådmandsstræde; 45-3/257-9558; dinner for two $80.

Månefiskeren
43 Bådmandsstræde; 45-3/257-2708; lunch for two $20.

Morgenstedet
134 Fabriksområdet; dinner for two $30.

Woodstock Café
Pusher St.; 45-3/254-5586; coffee for two $2.

Café Nemoland
Pusher St.; 45-3/295-8931; lunch for two $15.

What to Do

Loppen
43 Bådmandsstræde, Christiania; 45-3/257-8422.

Valdemars Slot
100 Slotsaleen, Troense, Tåsinge; 45-6/222-6106; www.valdemarsslot.dk.

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