Henley is a one-hour train ride from Paddington Station. The drive from London takes 45 minutes, but it's best to avoid Regatta Week traffic.
The Red Lion Hotel (Hart St.; 44-1491/572-161; doubles from $230) is the most popular place in town but is booked years in advance. Danesfield House Hotel & Spa (Henley Rd., Marlow-on-Thames; 44-1628/891-010; doubles from $360), a terrific alternative, sits on 65 acres three miles away.
The bold cooking of London has not arrived at Henley, but Loch Fyne (Market Place; 44-1491/845-780; dinner for two $80) offers smoked wild salmon and good fish. Zizzi (Hart St.; 44-1491/410-070; dinner for two $80) is more Italian than British. The busy Angel on the Bridge (Thameside; 44-1491/410-678; dinner for two $65), just inches from the river, won't have any seats available. The pub food at the far less crowded Bull Inn (Bell St.; 44-1491/574-821; dinner for two $65) is quite excellent.