The Resort: St. Anton am Arlberg
This classic Tyrolean village, considered the birthplace of modern skiing, has become a lively Alpine mecca, as renowned for its slopes (171 downhill miles with easy access to a network of 84 lifts) as it is for its nightlife.
Stay: With its gabled architecture, traditional rooms, and popular cocktail lounge, the Hotel Alte Post (doubles from $224)—set in the heart of the pedestrian base village—harks back to skiing’s sophisticated heyday. Ideally located next to the main gondola, the hotel Bergschloessl (doubles from $226) is housed in a 100-year-old building and delivers a taste of the Austrian countryside with claw-footed tubs and ceiling frescoes in its 10 guest rooms.
Eat: In the high-altitude hamlet of St. Christoph, the ski-in, ski-out Hospiz Alm (lunch for two $58) is a rustic chalet with a cozy atmosphere and a Bordeaux-heavy wine list. Just outside of town, there’s Hotel Sonnbichl (dinner for two $95) for Tyrolean fare, and Pomodoro (dinner for two $59), which serves pitch-perfect thin-crust pizza. For adventurous diners, few experiences rival the biweekly sledding night, or Rodel Abend (gondola ticket and sled rental $44). Start at the mountaintop Rodel Huette (dinner for two $62) with a meal of local specialties (pig’s knuckle with honey-infused sauerkraut, followed by Kaiserschmarren, a crêpelike dessert) and end the night with a 2.7-mile, floodlighted sled run.
Do: No ski day here is complete without a salutary cocktail, so take your pick of the village’s two legendary bars: the Krazy Kanguruh (drinks for two $12), a nearly 40-year-old staple that lures skiers with copious helpings of Jägermeister and rock ’n’ roll, and the Mooserwirt (drinks for two $11), a lively disco where Swedish ski instructors and European vacationers down frothy steins and ski-booted table dancing is de rigueur.