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25 Secret European Villages
Akim Benbrahim Pays du Perigord Noir
France: St.-Geniès
The Périgord, in the Dordogne, is home to two of France’s most coveted delicacies: foie gras and truffles. On market days in the tiny village of St.-Geniès, two hours east of Bordeaux, shoppers tote wicker baskets to the town square, where apron-clad vendors hawk pommes salardaises (potatoes sautéed in duck fat and garlic) and saucissons rolled in herbs. It was here that owner Pierre Chaminade transformed a crumbling castle into a four-room chambres d’hôtes and restaurant and hired a chef who trained under Alain Ducasse. In a dimly lit tavern with broad beams and rustic tables, you’ll feast on house-made duck confit, caramelized pork belly roasted on an open rotisserie, and gâteau aux noix, a fluffy butter cake sprinkled with walnuts.
Population: 987
How to Get There: Take the A89 from Bordeaux.
Where to Stay and Eat: Great Value Built to withstand wartime assaults, the 13th-century Château de St.-Geniès (doubles from $215; dinner for two $120) has thick stone walls and antiques-filled rooms.
Local Take: A bike ride in the countryside is the best way to work off the region’s famous foie gras, according to Chaminade.


