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100 Best City Restaurants

Buenos Aires: Bodegones

The city’s past lives on in its bodegones, neighborhood restaurants that often began as grocery stores. Here are the best places to soak up Porteño spirit.

El Obrero This 1954 stalwart on a hard-to-find street in La Boca serves up nostalgia alongside plump steaks, tortillas de papa, and shared tureens of homey soup. Yes, that is a photo of Bono and Francis Ford Coppola on the wall. Dinner for two $24.

El Preferido de Palermo Lost in a time warp amid Palermo’s trendy spots, this classic has retained its original grocery. Eat in the back room with red-checked tablecloths where a mix of old-timers and barrio hipsters order the signature fabada (Spanish bean-and-sausage casserole). Lunch for two $30.

Miramar Once a tailor shop, then a deli with a bar, this ur-bodegón is famous for its collection of old vermouth bottles, grilled sardines, and a wine-infused oxtail stew. Dinner for two $30.

Ña Serapia Cocina criolla—northern Argentinean flavor—rules at this no-frills, dirt-cheap cult favorite across from the Parque Las Heras. The carne picante (spicy beef) empanada is the juiciest in town, and the carbonada stew teeming with pumpkin and corn spells comfort food. Lunch for two $20. —Anya von Bremzen

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