Edinburgh
Fireworks lighting up the sky from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Bagpipers playing "Amazing Grace" around the Sir Walter Scott Monument.
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WHERE TO STAY Fireplaces are continuously rekindled at the baronial Balmoral. The Caledonian Hilton Edinburgh is equally opulent—it's Edinburgh's answer to the Plaza. HOLIDAY DINNER Sorceresses were burned at the stake beside the gates of Edinburgh Castle in the 16th century, but nothing is scorched at the Witchery by the Castle, which stands on the site. The restaurant serves heather-fed lamb and rabbit-and-pheasant terrine—all cooked to perfection. From the top floor of the Museum of Scotland's Tower Restaurant, look out over Georgian spires and rooftops while sampling roast saddle of venison. TRADITIONS It's standing room only at the 600-year-old St. Giles Cathedral on Christmas Eve for Lessons and Carols. Children make their own pilgrimage to the Pantomime at the Royal Lyceum, where actors perform fairy tales. BEST GIFTS Silversmith Hamilton & Inches has chain-mail scarf necklaces by Nathalie Hambro ($463) and Stephen Webster-designed crystal-inlaid cuff links ($2,197); plus, every bauble comes in the store's coveted purple box. Even non-Scots can have kilts made in any tartan, any fabric—leather is quite popular—at Geoffrey Tailor Kiltmakers; they've stitched custom kilts for Mel Gibson and Madonna. COMING FULL CIRCLE Ride Scotland's tallest Ferris wheel, which rises 108 feet above the Princes Street Gardens. Then warm up with mulled wine and steaming mince pie from the gardens' Traditional German Market. —Heidi Sherman Mitchell
The List
Balmoral 1 Princes St.; 800/223-6800 or 44-131/556-2414; doubles from $180
Caledonian Hilton Edinburgh Princes St.; 800/445-8667 or 44-131/222-8888; doubles from $244
Witchery by the Castle Castlehill, the Royal Mile; 44-131/225-5613; dinner for two $110
Museum of Scotland's Tower Restaurant Chambers St.; 44-131/225-3003; dinner for two $78
Café Royal Oyster House 17A West Register St.; 44-131/556-1884
St. Giles Cathedral The Royal Mile; 44-131/225-9442
Royal Lyceum Grindlay St.; 44-131/248-4848; Tickets from $12
Hamilton & Inches 87 George St.; 44-131/225-4898
Geoffrey Tailor Kiltmakers 57-59 High St., the Royal Mile; 44-131/557-0256
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